Big Mama's, Pangimotu Island, Tonga

Our first impressions of Big Mama’s were a little confusing. Some thatched huts or what they call fales (falays) sat in a neat row with a restaurant/bar with deck over the water right on the point. From the boat they looked a little low key. Now I don’t know what Pete had in mind but he said to Darren “this must be the staff quarters, I bet the resort is around the corner” Nope. This is it boys!

It wasn’t until we went ashore that we got to experience the true essence of Big Mama’s. On the rickety wooden deck we met Big Mama, or Anna who was looking after the official gentlemen who had cleared our customs forms. They all sat around the table with a bottle of Mata maka which is a local beer. All except the youngest who had another coke. Big Mama was a colourful lady. Not as big as what I might have thought the Tongan’s are by reputation. She wore high heel wedges, gold jewelery, lipstick and a flower behind her ear. And when she smiled we felt at home, welcomed into the fold. A warm smile with gold speckled teeth. A cheeky tone and a hearty laugh. Big Mama was the essence of this place. At once she organized a drink for us and welcomed us to her island. We sat on the deck taking in the new sights. Long tables draped with brightly flowered table cloths and decorated with hibiscus flowers, clam shell ash trays and a sand floor bar completed the scene. The tide lapped under the deck and we smiled. We had made the crossing and now we could relax. Playing darts was a tall slim man who we later found out was Big Mama’s husband, Earl. Earl was a great source of wisdom and

                                                          was able to help out many times over the next week.

Pete and Leachy were so excited to be here that they booked a room for the night. It wasn’t until later that we realized that there was no electricity or hot water. Just the same it was a well kept fale with mossie nets and a clothes line to hang your wet cozi. The boys were keen to kick back and enjoy their holiday now. The hard part was over and now they could do just that.

We dined in style that first night. We all had the best snapper and salad you could wish for. We were the only patrons in the restaurant so we were treated like royalty. We met the staff: Bessy, Annie, Mary and Winnie most somehow related. They looked so beautiful in matching sarongs, quietly going about their duties. I was so tired that night I could hardly keep my eyes open. We went home for an early night.

Next morning bright and early was Mother’s Day. Now Mother’s Day in Tonga is a big affair. And at Big Mamma’s it is no exception. Footpaths were swept, the tables laid with fresh flowers and everyone had a spring in their step. Out the back the family and staff were busy preparing for a busy day, cutting up breadfruit, husking coconuts and roasting a pig over an open fire. This was for Big Mama’s own private mothers day feast.

Soon the ferries would be arriving from the mainland bringing tourists and ex-pats to celebrate Mothers Day on the island. Religion is a very important part of life in Tonga and normally on a Sunday there is absolutely no work. Food is prepared in advance and they all go to church and catch up with relatives and relax. There is no swimming, playing or any activity outside church at all. Things are slightly more western on Big Mama’s given that it is a tourist resort so there was a buzz about the place and soon it was busy with people snorkeling the reef, kids swimming at the beach and people relaxing around the tables along the foreshore. We ordered Earl’s famous beef curry for lunch and enjoyed our 2nd best meal in Tonga! It’s good to be here…