Today is Gavin’s birthday and he is still finishing off some of his pre-birthday celebration drinks and is very excited (and vocal) about seeing us come in!!! Good to be here. Our first impressions of Fiji are of a welcome.
The terrain is more mountainous and the smell of the land is sweet and pleasant. The moon is full and we can see the beach on the little island with palm trees. It is quiet and calm, Gavin has gone to bed, not a breath of wind. The water is flat and glossy. Onshore yellow streetlights glow in the moist night air and I can hear the occasional dog fight. It feels like we are back in civilization.
The next ten days are a whirlwind of excitement and discovery. Savusavu is a delightful town and we fall in love with the easygoing lifestyle. The Indian influence is apparent with curry specials on every menu and henna tattoos adorning the women. Tiny shopfronts with sewing machines can make “what you like” in an hour. Bula shirts and saris or even a pocket sulu. (a man’s wraparound “skirt” in suit style material with sidepockets) The market place is full of produce and the spices are sold by the gram. I’ve also noticed that the women mostly wear their hair shorter here. Gone are the long plaits of Tonga and the short fuzzy wuzzy hair is in.
A traditional “Welcome Kava Ceremony” is organized for members of the ICA rally and John the ICA director would really like some women to join in so he volunteers my services. We arrive in our new matching outfits; Duncan and Darcy look like they have stepped off the set of “Two and a Half Men” in their new shirts and Seisia and I wear the same “Bula” print dresses. Bula (pronounced Bulla) is the Fijian hello and the louder you say it the better! Now as the only female to partake in the ceremony (how did I guess that would happen) we approach the hand woven pandanas mat, take off our shoes and sit crosslegged around the edge while John presents our gift of Kava to the Chief. Some customary words are spoken and it is agreed that we become accepted and are invited to drink kava. Kava is a plant known for its relaxant properties. In Fiji the kava is dried and then ground or powdered, mixed with water in a wooden kava bowl until it looks like it comes from a puddle and then presented quite ceremoniously in a coconut shell to each person one by one around the mat. There is a series of claps (which is done with cupped hands) before and then after each person drinks the whole shell without stopping. Kava traditionally was drunk by the men when they gathered together to discuss issues and resolve any problems, much like the public bar on a Friday night. It is now acceptable for women to drink kava too and Kava Bars or a Nukamal is the place to do so. The effects are immediate with a slight tingling of the lips and tongue. After my third shell at half tide I am wondering how to ask to politely to “leave the table”.
Later in the night Duncan and Gavin are on the mat with Lino and some deals are struck. It is agreed that some buses will be organized and Chief Lino and a few of his boys will take some of us on a tour around Savusavu with a BBQ at the end.
The next morning I meet Lino at the Copra Shed and am surprised to see him in a smart polo shirt with gold rimmed aviator glasses minus his sulu (sarong). We walk together to the local market to pick up some ingredients for the BBQ which he will prepare while we are out. As we enter the building it becomes obvious that he is a well respected man about town and also someone who is well liked. People are shouting greetings and shaking his hand as we move easily through the crowded aisles between fish mongers until we find three beautiful pink snapper hiding in a deepfreeze. A few more fresh ingredients and a stop at the supermarket for chicken, sausages, canola oil and Chinese “vetching powder” (msg!!!) and I return to the others for our outing.
It turns out the buses aren’t available so we will be travelling local style. A truck with a canvas covering and two long seats down either side transport us up over the steep hills and to a waterfall and swimming hole amidst a beautiful forest of 100 year old trees. The vegetation is lush and the water is freezing but it’s an opportunity not to be missed!
Next we visit the thermal pools where boiling hot water bubbles out of the hillside in shallow pools. It is completely open to the public and local people come and steam their puddings and meals while they go to work. Some are just wrapped in a piece of old blue tarp!
When we arrive at Lino’s place for the BBQ we are astounded by the scene that greets us. The grassy block is speckled with tropical plants that Lino has transplanted himself. It turns out he caretakes this land and it is actually for sale. I want to pull out my cheque book on the spot! But Duncan holds me back. Coconut trees dot the foreshore and the low tide sands lead out to tiny, coral, rocky outcrops jutting up, some with a single palm growing on them. Lino has laid a table with a colourful table cloth that flaps in the warm breeze, some dogs lie lazily in the shade. There is a relaxed happy feeling and I have a stupid grin on my face. “Welcome” says Lino. “We are family. We are one.” This becomes his catchphrase and we hear it over again as we share the beautiful meal, a beer and companionship on a memorable afternoon. The young fellows who were playing at the Sailing Club the night before appear out of the bush with their guitars and play again for us. They are happy and carefree, joking with one another and larking around. One thing I’ve discovered in the South Pacific is that Dr Hook, Elvis and The Eagles are still cool. “That’s the Savusavu way…”
Overwhelmed by generosity we ask how we can repay the kindness. A suggestion is raised and we all wholeheartedly agree to help. Waqa (Wanga) is custodian of the reef on the point. His family own the little island surrounded by reef that is under the care of famous French marine biologist Jacque Cousto. He is like a marine ranger and it is his job to protect the reef and so we agree to take a few boats out the next day and help remove the terrible Crown of Thorns starfish that is destroying the reef. It is a successful venture with about 4 fertilizer bags filled with the horrible creatures that will be left out in the sun to die and then burnt. It starts to rain on the way back but that’s ok because we have Rodney and Sonny still smiling and playing guitars with another round of “The Savusavu Way”. Suddenly there is a bit of a panic and then a shrug of the shoulders followed by a laugh. It turns out that Rodney is due to play at a wedding at Cousto’s Resort in less than half an hour and he’s not worried if he doesn’t make it. We don’t want to be responsible for a cranky bride so we make sure he is delivered with 10 minutes spare to change and practice before the ceremony begins!
For the rest of our time in Savusavu we catch up with friends we have met on the rally, catch up on some schoolwork to post and explore a bit more around town and the bay. I have made friends with Siteri who is a lovely woman who washes our laundry. Every day she teaches me some new words and we become quite friendly.
One day I visit the market. The musty smell of kava roots hanging from the rafters and pungent aroma of turmeric and cumin fill my nostrils. It is a pleasant, happy place and I make my way to my favourite stall. The woman there looks tired today and when I ask if she’s ok she explains that as it was a cold night last night she didn’t get much sleep as she doesn't have a blanket!
Before we leave Savusavu we spend a few quiet nights anchored out near Cousto’s Resort. Waqa visits us in his longboat and we enjoy his company. Late one afternoon Duncan and I go for a walk and meet the manager of the resort who gives us the grand tour and is very friendly. He says we are welcome to join the paying guests for dinner as it is a traditional Fijian dinner – cooked in the ground and only about $40 per head. We thank him for his offer and head back to Catina. Just on sunset Waqa arrives with an esky full of hot food for us. It’s a traditional Fijian dinner – cooked in the ground, straight from the resort! We laugh and enjoy the tasty dish of fish and coconut milk wrapped in leaves and steamed under hot rocks. Delicious!
One & a half men!
The ladies of the Savusavu marketplace
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